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“Sometimes, we forget how lucky we are,” ruminated Denis Dubourdieu, referring to the remarkable run of Sauternes vintages since 2000, a run that continues with the excellent 2010s. As usual, I spent a day blind tasting samples of 2010 and 2008 in bottle, as well as tasting individual lots of various châteaux, an exercise that offers a “behind-the-scenes” look at the newborn vintage. Over the following days, I re-tasted the 2010s twice more to confirm my impressions.

The key to the 2010 growing season was a long, dry summer that concentrated berries in similar fashion to the dry reds. September saw little rain, denying the Sauternais with golden berries with thick skins, but no sign of botrytis. A spike in temperatures around mid-September caused some patchy shrivel and botrytis, the first pick offering small quantities of berries that were high in acidity. Thirty millimeters of rain on October 4, and ensuing warm days provoked widespread botrytis that frustratingly stalled at the “pourri plein” stage, rather than tipping over into the “rôti” stage that concentrates the berries. This finally happened on October 12, when the wind swung round to the East. Pickers could finally be sent into the vineyards en masse, resulting in around 80% of the crop being picked during the second half of October.

The embryonic 2010 Sauternes are fresh, vibrant, taut, linear and precise. They are not the rich, effervescent, seductive wines that formed last year’s alumni, but they are pretty in their own individual way, particularly for wine-lovers with a penchant for tension and minéralité. Residual sugars are between 120- 140gms/L, although I felt their sweetness was less tangible than the 2009s due to the slightly higher acidity levels hat seem sharper than analysis suggests.

The top names have produced some exceptional wines whose notes you will find below. Châteaux Yquem, Climens, La Tour Blanche, Coutet and Suduiraut all fashioned taut, mineral-driven Sauternes that have the linearity of a fine Riesling Trocken ... but a lot more sweetness! The region continues to be beset by financial woes and consumer apathy, but that has not deterred young vignerons from throwing the dice and making Sauternes. Take Domaine de l’Alliance for example. After visiting the historic Yquem shrouded in its luxuriant air, I found myself in an unkempt garage on the outskirts of an industrial estate in Langon. Just a few years ago, Daniel Alibrand, commercial fisherman turned winemaker, was welding his vats together, but now this, dare I say, “maverick genius” is making top-class Sauternes from the most rudimentary equipment. It is these kinds of passionate individuals that the region needs.

With respect to the 2008 Sauternes that are now in bottle, I was impressed by how well many had evolved since their en primeur showing two years ago, and several warranted upgraded appraisals and scores. Chances are that this vintage will be overlooked between the more successful 2007 and 2009 vintages. Quantities are small due to a viscous frost on April 7, but like the 2010s, the wines often have life-affirming freshness and vitality, and I suspect they will age far better than first predicted.

&How long will this run of successful Sauternes vintages continue? How long can they keep throwing the dice and turning up a six? Denis Dubourdieu’s father reminded his son of the woeful 1960s and 1970s when, in many seasons, nothing could be produced. You never know when such a cycle could return, but they will keep throwing that dice. I recommend stocking up the 2010s and relishing these exceptional Sauternes.
—Neal Martin

2010 Coutet - 93-95
A Sauternes Blend Sweet White Table wine from Barsac, Bordeaux, France
The 2010 Chateau Coutet has 154-gms/litre residual sugar, one of the highest in Sauternes/Barsac. It is endowed with a delightful bouquet of freshly sliced mango, Tropicana and a touch of honey, with good definition and minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with very impressive balance and poise, and is slightly viscous in the mouth, with almond, lemon curd and a touch of orange peel. The finish is composed and long. The 2010 Coutet is very impressive for the vintage, although I suggest not quite reaching the stellar heights of the magnificent 2009.